When the word got out a few months ago that ciccerone Ryan Conklin, was going to lead the beer program at a soon-to-open restaurant called Old Major, I knew that this new place must be something special if he were to consider making the move from acclaimed Euclid Hall. After enjoying a private tasting last week, it’s clear to me that Conklin (and a number of other cocktail-rock-stars, such as Brian Melton of Off the Cuff Cocktails, Courtney Wilson, president of the Colorado Bartenders’ Guild, and Melissa Durant, formerly tending bar at The Green Russell) made a great decision. This lineup behind the bar tells me a lot about Old Major- It tells me that they treat their beverage program as equally important as their swine and seafood.
Old Major is the newest place to open in the Highland neighborhood of Denver. It is conveniently located just steps away from Williams & Graham, which means I will always visit both establishments when I’m in the neighborhood. The building had originally been a roller skating rink, and the original wood floors provide a unique foundation upon which a gorgeously repurposed, carefully resourced restaurant has been built. The farm house feel is evident, which I particularly appreciate because Old Major, as you may recall, is the wise pig from George Orwell’s classic, Animal Farm. Old Major stirred a revolution against the farmer, by the way.
I was invited to Old Major for a chef’s tasting, led by chef owner Justin Brunson. Justin passionately described his approach to sourcing the best meat, seafood, and vegetables available while introducing us to plate after plate of soon-to-be signature dishes. An immediate crowd pleaser were the pretzel rolls with mustard butter. We sipped some red and white house blends, served on tap, that are made exclusively for Old Major by Infinite Monkey Theorem, and then explored The Smoked Fishplate.
Next came a Black Truffle and Pistachio Sausage over Potato Puree with an Escargot Vinaigrette, and by this point most of us had finished our wine, which was a perfect time for illustrious Courtney Wilson, formerly of Williams & Graham, to introduce us to the bar with a tasting of The Fair Deal, a Scotch cocktail featuring Pigs Nose Scotch, pear, Drambuie, and Cocchi Americano.
As a cocktail-tour-guide and self proclaimed cocktail-enthusiast (meaning I’ve been known to enjoy a cocktail or five…), I was glad to start sipping some of these new spiritous libations. They were, as I had expected, fantastic.
Chef Brunson followed the sausage with Pan Roasted Colorado Striped Bass on Lemon Risotto with Braised Leeks and Roasted Baby Turnips and Beets. As a diner who overwhelmingly prefers fish to meat, this dish was my favorite and I reluctantly shared it, as each dish presented, with my esteemed media companions..
Despite all of us starting to feel satiated, there was still one more round of food and drinks before dessert. We dug right in to Old Major’s Duck Fat French Fries and Braised Rapini as if our appetites had suddenly rebounded.
Courtney brought us another cocktail to taste- The Three Minute Rule, made with Cognac, Carpano Antica, and Pedro Ximenez Sherry.
The Luxardo cherry at the bottom was the perfect bite after tasting the Pan Seared 10 oz Pork Chop served with Parsnip Puree, Brussel Sprouts, and Guanciale in a pork demi-glace (poured table-side… a presentation which never seems to get old for me).
It was finally time for dessert, which is something Old Major takes very seriously. Dessert is not an afterthought here as it can be in some establishments, and that became clear upon tasting the Maple Bacon Creme Caramel with Maple Bacon Custard and Candied Denver Bacon Co. Bacon. Yes, bacon lovers- there’s a dessert for you at Old Major.
On the lighter side, we also tried the Baked Alaska with a Blood Orange Glacé, Meringue, and Olive Oil Sponge. Both desserts were addictively delicious and not a bite was left on our plates.
By the time we were ready to roll ourselves out of there, all six of us at our table agreed that Old Major was one of the best things to happen to the Denver food scene, ever. It’s so very casual– a de-formalized fine dining experience– Old Major is a restaurant not to be missed.
Old Major
3316 Tejon Street
Denver, CO 80211
720.420.0622